You leave the fracas of Pacific Coast Highway and enter a world of ambient chill, minimalist teak and a backlit bar bedecked with exquisite jewel-toned sake bottles. It’s pure izakaya, the Japanese answer to a tapas bar. Nothing is lost in translation as you’re escorted to your near-private booth, a sultry array of vintage kimono pillows lining the seats. You peer at the next table, the rolled bamboo shades offering a discreet cover. When your sake flight arrives, you toast mystery, things exotic and Japanese new wave cinema. And the sushi? Let’s just say your first bite takes you back to that tucked-away little bar you happened upon your first night in Tokyo, a tranquil haven from the glorious neon chaos outside. Japonica Dining, 1304 ½ S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach. (310) 316-9477. www.japonicadining.com
